Alizée Dufraisse: La Reina Mora 8c+/9a FFA

Alizée Dufraisse: La Reina Mora 8c+/9a FFA drops you onto the sun-baked limestone of Siurana, Spain, as French climber Alizée Dufraisse tackles La Reina Mora in El Pati—one of the world’s most iconic testpiece walls. In under five minutes, this prAna short captures the intensity of her push into the 8c+/9a realm, culminating in a landmark first female ascent on a route whose grade and reputation have only grown with repeat attempts by the strongest climbers. What makes this worth watching is the blend of high-stakes history and raw, close-up effort: precise footwork on thin edges, committed body positions, and the quiet focus it takes to stick a sequence when everything is on the line. It’s a quick hit of big-grade inspiration—part snapshot of a breakthrough moment, part reminder of how rare and hard-earned performances at this level are—and it will leave you wanting to queue up more from Siurana’s legendary cliffs.

prAna · 4:58

Alizée Dufraisse, who climbed her first 8c+, Pati noso, not long ago, has now pushed it half a notch further by doing La Reina Mora, 8c+/9a, at Siurana. The route is in the same sector, El Pati, as Pati noso, so it would seem this wall suits her quite well! This was of course the first female ascent. There has, after all, not been that many female ascents at this level. So few in fact that you can count the number of women who have climbed anything harder than 8c+ on one hand, even if you were to have lost a digit (or maybe even two). La Reina Mora was originally given 8c/+ by Ramon Julian Puigblanque but has later been upgraded first by Nico Favresse who suggested 8c+ and then by Dani Andrada who thought it was at least 8c+/9a, maybe even 9a. ~UKClimbing.com