Gabriele Moroni has chased one winter ritual since 2014: returning to Margalef with a single obsession in mind—Demencia Senil, the legendary 9a+/5.15a. Uncut: Gabriele Moroni - Demencia Senil follows the Italian powerhouse through that long-brewing goal, culminating in the moment his dream clicks into reality on December 30, 2019.
What makes this worth your seven minutes is the raw focus: no detours, just the tension of a world-class route and the patience it demands over years. You’ll feel the razor-thin margins of top-end sport climbing—power, precision, and composure on the edge—set against Margalef’s iconic rock and winter atmosphere, ending with the kind of send that’s equal parts relief, joy, and disbelief.
South of Adam Ondra’s hometown of Brno, the landscape looks like a climber’s dead zone—flat fields, no cliffs, nowhere to pull. In Adam Ondra #47: The Best Boulder Ever Built, Adam flips that assumption on its head, hunting down a hidden urban/industrial gem: a striking arete first climbed in 2002 by pastor Ivo David and left untouched for nearly two decades, waiting for a rare second ascent.
What makes this episode irresistible is the mix of discovery, history, and pure problem-solving. Watching Ondra unlock razor-edged movement on an exposed arete is thrilling on its own, but the twist—tackling the hardest boulder he’s ever done in approach shoes, and arguing they might be better than climbing shoes here—adds a fascinating layer of experimentation. Fast, focused, and packed with creative footwork and tense attempts, it’s a sharp reminder that world-class climbing can exist in the most unexpected places.
